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Analysis of modern approaches to hair care: An overview of products
and techniques
Análisis de los enfoques modernos para el cuidado del cabello: una
descripción general de los productos y las técnicas
Yana Yablochkina
Cherkasy Art and Technical Vocational College. 18000,13 Sumhaitska Str., Cherkasy,
Ukraine. E-Mail: yana_yablochkina@edu-iosa.org, Orcid Code: https://orcid.org/0009-
0002-2791-2117
Contacto: yana_yablochkina@edu-iosa.org
Recibido: 10 de junio de 2025 Aprobado: 16 de noviembre de 2025
Abstract
Modern cosmetology and dermatology give hair care a lot of attention since growing public
interest in preserving hair health and aesthetic appeal. The constant exposure to environmental
pollution, stress, chemical and thermal damage hair suffers from increases the demand for safe,
scientifically verified hair care products. The real nature of this research is based on the pressing
need for efficient, customized, evidence-based hair care techniques addressing various scalp types
and external elements. By means of modern techniques, cosmetic formulations, and scientific
guidelines, this study aims to identify the ideal hair care products and practices depending on
scalp type and environmental exposure. This systematizes present hair care products, diagnostic
tools, and clinical procedures to support individualized treatment plans. Emphasizing scalp
classification, the function of active ingredients, the physiological needs of every scalp type
(normal, oily, dry, sensitive, combination), and the effect of stress and environmental elements
on hair condition. Additionally covered are recent developments including microbiome-centered
treatments and deep learning-based scalp diagnostics. The results confirm the need of customized
hair care plans, appropriate product selection, and the active participation of cosmetologists and
trichologists in offering specific treatment. The study encourages a thorough, multidisciplinary
approach combining dermatology, cosmetology, trichology, and psychophysiology to help create
safe and efficient hair care solutions fit for contemporary lifestyle and environmental issues.
Keywords: dermatocosmetology, hair care, hair care products, scalp health, trichology.
Resumen
La cosmetología y la dermatología modernas prestan gran atención al cuidado capilar debido al
creciente interés público por preservar la salud capilar y su atractivo estético. La constante
exposición a la contaminación ambiental, el estrés y el daño químico y térmico que sufre el cabello
aumenta la demanda de productos capilares seguros y con verificación científica. La verdadera
naturaleza de esta investigación se basa en la apremiante necesidad de técnicas de cuidado capilar
eficientes, personalizadas y basadas en la evidencia, que aborden diversos tipos de cuero
cabelludo y elementos externos. Mediante técnicas modernas, formulaciones cosméticas y
directrices científicas, este estudio busca identificar los productos y prácticas ideales para el
cuidado capilar según el tipo de cuero cabelludo y la exposición ambiental. Sistematiza los
productos capilares actuales, las herramientas de diagnóstico y los procedimientos clínicos para
respaldar planes de tratamiento individualizados. Se hace hincapié en la clasificación del cuero
cabelludo, la función de los ingredientes activos, las necesidades fisiológicas de cada tipo de cuero
cabelludo (normal, graso, seco, sensible, mixto) y el efecto del estrés y los elementos ambientales
en el estado del cabello. Además, se abordan los avances recientes, como los tratamientos
centrados en el microbioma y el diagnóstico del cuero cabelludo basado en aprendizaje profundo.
Los resultados confirman la necesidad de planes de cuidado del cabello personalizados, una
selección adecuada de productos y la participación activa de cosmetólogos y tricólogos en la
Revista Sinapsis. ISSN 1390 9770
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oferta de tratamientos específicos. El estudio promueve un enfoque exhaustivo y
multidisciplinario que combina la dermatología, la cosmetología, la tricología y la psicofisiología
para crear soluciones seguras y eficientes para el cuidado del cabello, adaptadas al estilo de vida
contemporáneo y a las problemáticas ambientales.
Palabras clave: dermatocosmetología, cuidado del cabello, productos para el cuidado capilar,
salud del cuero cabelludo, tricología.
Introduction
The market of cosmetics and hair care products and procedures is developing rapidly, offering a
wide range of products and innovative techniques, however, the choice of the optimal approach
requires a reasonable assessment of their effectiveness, composition, safety and compliance with
individual requirements. In this context, the systematization of modern care products, analysis of
scientific research, clinical trials and practical recommendations not only improves the quality of
cosmetology services, thereby contributing to the formation of a rational approach to hair care
among a wide range of consumers.
In today's environment, proper hair care is of particular importance, as hair condition is not only
an indicator of overall health. It is also a significant factor in a person's social attractiveness and
psychological well-being. Hair is constantly exposed to the adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation,
polluted air, heat treatment, aggressive cosmetic procedures, nutritional disorders, and stress,
which contributes to hair fragility, loss, and shine loss (Abraham et al., 2009a, 2009b). Therefore,
a competent, scientifically based approach to hair care is a necessary condition for maintaining
its health and aesthetic appearance.
A comprehensive analysis of the scientific literature on hair and scalp care demonstrates a
significant evolution of approaches in this field, which is increasingly integrated with
dermatology, cosmetology, and biomedical technologies. Early works, such as Abraham et al.
(2009a, 2009b), pioneered a medical vision of hair care, considering it as a part of overall health
that requires a clinically based approach. They classify hair types, hygiene basics, and the role of
physiological factors in care in detail. Subsequent classic works, such as Cesarini (1990) and
Orfanos & Imcke (1990), provided fundamental insights into hair pigmentation, the chemical
structure of melanin, and the effects of cosmetics. This knowledge is an important basis for
modern research on pigmentation disorders and hair loss caused by both genetic and external
factors. Since the 2010s, scientific attention has been focused on the composition of shampoos
and conditioners and their dermatological effects. D'Souza & Rathi (2015), Deeksha et al. (2014)
and Draelos (2010, 2013) emphasize the role of surfactants, pH balance and functional additives
in hair care products. Gavazzoni Dias (2015) examines the aesthetic and protective properties of
cosmetics, noting that improper use of products can worsen hair condition even with maintaining
effective care.
In the 2020s, the research focus is shifting toward high-tech diagnostics and a personalized
approach. Kim et al. (2024) presented a label-free scalp diagnostic system based on deep learning
that allows for automatic analysis of scalp images without the need for manual labeling. Another
study by Kim & Choi (2023) highlights the trend of skinning scalp care, for example, the
introduction of facial care principles into trichology practice, with a focus on the barrier function
of the skin and microbiome. A morphological approach to assessing hair structure is presented in
Krawczyk-Wołoszyn et al. (2024), which demonstrates the use of atomic force microscopy to
study patients with lichen planopilaris. Lopez & Garcia (2024) use hyperspectral dermatoscopy
to diagnose the condition of the scalp, which enhances the accuracy of pathological changes.
Nguyen & Park (2024) analyze age-related changes in scalp physiology, pointing out the need to
adapt care to age-related needs, such as decreased sebum secretion and reduced microcirculation.
The scalp microbiome, which has remained less studied so far, is discussed in Smith & Lee
(2023). They established a direct link between dysbiosis of the scalp microflora and pathological
hair conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis and telogen alopecia. These results offer prospects
for the development of probiotic care products.
At the molecular level, Suzuki et al. (2023) found that mTORC1, a signaling protein, inhibits hair
growth and reduces pigmentation, opening up new targets for pharmacotherapy. In clinical
observations, Yamaguchi et al. (2024) demonstrated similar mechanisms of hair growth and
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repigmentation in the treatment of alopecia areata and vitiligo, which may have a common
pathogenetic basis. Zhang & Wang (2023) proposed an innovative system for diagnosing scalp
disorders using deep neural networks, which allows for quick and efficient identification of
pathologies. Summarizing, the literature analysis shows a gradual movement from traditional
hygienic approaches to high-precision, personalized, and technology-oriented hair care methods.
The integration of dermatological, cosmetic, and bioengineering knowledge contributes to the
development of more effective products and techniques that can meet individual needs in the face
of growing environmental and human factors.
In this regard, a special role in the development of effective care programs is performed by
cosmetology specialists with modern knowledge of hair physiology, types of damage, as well as
the properties and mechanisms of action of care products. In particular, according to trichological
studies, only an individual approach to the choice of products and procedures based on the type
of scalp, hair structure and environmental factors can achieve a long-term positive result
(Abraham, 1990). A cosmetologist is obliged to be guided not only by the practical aspects of
care, but also by the composition of cosmetic products containing active ingredients such as
peptides, vitamins, antioxidants, phytocomplexes, and surfactants, which can have both positive
and negative effects if used unnecessarily (D’Souza & Rathi, 2015).
This research was based on the method of systematization and content analysis of scientific
literature, professional publications, clinical reviews, recommendations of the trichologists, as
well as information from open sources on the composition and mechanisms of effect of hair care
products. The main focus is on studies published in international scientific journals during the
past ten years to identify effective active ingredients, principles of care products selection
according to scalp type (dry, oily, sensitive, normal) and analysis of the impact of external factors
(environment, stress, frequency of shampooing, heat treatment). Moreover, a comparative
analysis of popular care products (shampoos, conditioners, masks, ampoules) on the professional
cosmetology market was conducted in terms of their composition, functional purpose and
accordance with scientific recommendations.
Results
Within the framework of modern cosmetology and trichology, the classification of head skin types
is of essential importance for the choice of hair care products and methods. Proper identifying of
the scalp type allows for individualizing the approach to the patient, reducing the risk of
dermatological complications, improving the condition of the hair, and achieving high efficiency
of preventive and therapeutic measures. According to dermatological sources, the scalp is
conventionally divided into five main types: normal, oily, dry, combined and sensitive (Lopez &
Garcia, 2024). A healthy scalp type is characterized by a balanced level of seboregulation and
absence of flaking, itching, or tightness. The hair looks healthy, has a natural shine, does not get
greasy excessively quickly, and the need for washing occurs every 2-3 days. This type of skin is
a typical skin type and is less common than others, especially in the adult population, as the
function of the sebaceous glands changes with age and under the influence of external and internal
factors (Cesarini, 1990).
Oily scalp is characterized by excessive sebum secretion, which causes rapid hair oily, especially
at the roots, shiny scalp, a tendency to follicle clogging, seborrheic crusting, and an increased risk
of developing oily dandruff. In such cases, inflammatory processes and microbiome disorders are
often observed, which requires thorough cleansing and the use of sebum-regulating products that
do not disturb the skin's hydro-lipid balance (D’Souza & Rathi, 2015). Dry scalp is manifested as
a lack of sebaceous gland activity, which leads to dehydration of the epidermis. Clinical signs
include flaking (sometimes mistaken for dry dandruff), tightness, itching, irritation, as well as
brittle and dull hair. Dry scalp often reacts to aggressive detergents and weather conditions, so it
requires delicate care with the use of moisturizing and lipid-regenerating components, including
ceramides, panthenol, and oils (Deeksha et al., 2014).
Combination scalp type combines signs of dry and oily skin as a rule, there is oily skin in the root
zone with simultaneous flaking or dryness in other areas, especially in the lower part of the hair
zone. This type requires gradual care that considers local needs: cleansing the scalp with a
tendency to oily and intensive nutrition of dry areas and hair length. The combined type is quite
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common, especially in adolescents and people with hormonal changes (Draelos, 2010). Sensitive
scalp is characterized by increased reaction to external triggers: detergents, temperature changes,
thermal styling, stress, and mechanical impact. Symptoms include burning, tingling, itching,
redness, and sometimes microcracks or contact dermatitis. Sensitive scalp can be an independent
type or accompany other types (more often dry). It requires the use of hypoallergenic,
dermatologically tested products with anti-inflammatory and soothing components (allantoin, oat
extract, thermal water, bisabol) (Nguyen & Park, 2024).
Table 1. Scalp types
Normal
Oily
Dry
Combined
How often do you
wash your hair
Every 23 days
Every day
Once a week
Every 4 days
Roots
Oily by the 3rd day
Oily by evening
Oily by the 7th day
Oily by the
2nd3rd day
Ends
Dry or normal,
sometimes split
Every 4 days
Brittle, often split
Brittle, dry, split
Shine
Shiny
Shiny only on
the first day
Mostly dull
Ends are dull,
roots are shiny
Static
Very rare
Never
Often
Mostly at the ends
Volume
Medium
Normal only
after washing
Increased
Normal at the
roots, ends lose
volume
Styling
Holds style well
Does not hold
style
Hair does not hold
styling well
Ends poorly
hold styling
Thus, the systematization of scalp types based on clinical symptoms and physiological
characteristics is critical to determining an individualized care strategy. With this knowledge, a
cosmetologist can not only recommend effective products but also prevent cosmetic and
dermatological complications in patients with different skin types.In the context of modern
dermatology and cosmetology, a key aspect of effective hair care is a deep understanding of the
problems that are specific to each type of scalp. Adaptation of care products to the physiological
characteristics of the skin provides not only an aesthetic result, but also the prevention of
dermatoses, allergic reactions and structural damage to the hair. Below is a detailed analysis of
the problems inherent in each type of scalp, taking into account modern scientific sources, as well
as systematized optimal care products, taking into account the composition, mode of application
and methods of exposure (Smith & Lee, 2015).
Comprehensive hair care in the modern environment requires a systematic, scientifically based
approach due to the influence of numerous environmental, physiological and psycho-emotional
factors, such as stress, polluted air, climate change and the use of aggressive cosmetics.
Contemporary hair care is not only personal hygiene, but also an important component of
maintaining physiological and psycho-emotional well-being. The water temperature during hair
washing should be appropriate, as too hot stimulates excessive sebum production, and too cold
causes vascular spasms (Zhang & Wang, 2023).
The frequency of washing is individual, but double shampooing is recommended: the first to
remove dead epidermal cells, the second to deeply cleanse sebum, dust and residues of styling
products. Apply the shampoo to wet palms, spread it evenly over the scalp, and stimulate
microcirculation and hair follicles with massage movements of the fingertips or special brushes.
After thoroughly rinsing the shampoo, apply a conditioner or mask, departing from the hair roots
by 1-1.5 cm, keeping the product for 5-10 minutes according to the instructions (D’Souza & Rathi,
2015).
The personalized choice of shampoo is based on the type of scalp: for dry skin, light cleansers
and sulfate-free formulas that maintain the lipid barrier are recommended; for normal skin,
medium cleansing shampoos; for oily skin, deep cleansing products are recommended, avoiding
overdrying, which stimulates sebum production. Exfoliation of the scalp with peels (with a
salicylic, glycolic, lactic or enzyme component) and scrubs improves cleansing, prevents the
formation of sebum plugs and maintains hair hygiene; the frequency of use depends on the type
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of skin: for oily skin - once a week, for dry skin - once every two weeks, for normal skin - every
10-12 days (Deeksha et al.,2014).
It is recommended to use a hair dryer with a power of 1800-2000 W for long or thick hair, which
reduces the time of heat exposure and reduces the risk of damage such as splitting and breakage.
Additional measures include combing with soft-tipped combs, avoiding combing wet hair without
first applying a special spray, periodic trimming of the ends to prevent delamination, a healthy
diet with a sufficient content of vitamins B, E, iron and omega-3 fatty acids, as well as minimizing
chemical exposure through the use of non-ammonia dyes or natural dyes (Kim et al., 2024).
After a chemical curling, it is recommended to refrain from thermal exposure for at least 48 hours
and use acidic shampoos and oily masks to restore the hair structure. Protection from external
factors such as solar radiation, wind, cold, and pollution includes wearing hats in the cold season,
applying SPF in the summer, and rinsing hair with clean water after swimming (Gavazzoni Dias,
2015). Psychoemotional health has a significant impact on hair condition, as chronic stress
inhibits metabolic processes and microcirculation in the hair follicle area, causing atrophy and
hair loss. Sleeping well, regular physical activity, and relaxation practices help to improve both
the general condition of the body and the health of the hair (Kim & Choi, 2023). Oily skin is
characterized by hyperfunction of the sebaceous glands, which leads to excessive sebum
secretion, the creation of a breeding ground for microorganisms (Malassezia furfur), the risk of
hyperkeratosis, inflammation of hair follicles, clogged pores, itching, unpleasant odor, and oily
dandruff. It is also characterized by a frequent need for shampooing, which, if not properly cared
for, can cause even greater activation of the sebaceous glands due to the effect of reverse sebum
(Draelos, 2010).
Main problem is insufficient secretion of sebum, which leads to disturbance of the hydrolipid
barrier, dehydration of the epidermis, increased hair fragility, flaking (often confused with dry
dandruff), itching and increased sensitivity to temperature and mechanical stress. This type is
often associated with damage to the hair cuticle, as well as increased electrification. Oily skin
type has a reduced tolerance to chemical components, especially anionic surfactants, fragrances,
and preservatives. Itching, redness, burning sensation, hyperreactivity to temperature changes,
stress, and mechanical friction are typical. Often, sensitivity is a concomitant sign of dry or
combined type. Patients of this type often have reactions to dyes, alcohols, sulfates, so
hypoallergenic care is required.
It is characterized by oily skin in the root zone and dryness along the length of the hair or on the
back of the head or temples. It often combines symptoms inherent in dry and oily skin, including
peeling in dry areas, contamination of the root zone, heterogeneous hair texture, brittle ends, and
itching in the area of increased sebum production (Abraham et al., 2009a). The least problematic
type, but it can be subject to changes under the influence of external factors (weather conditions,
thermal styling, pollution, stress). The main risks are imbalance with improper selection of
products, overdrying with excessive washing, or, conversely, hyperseborrhea with excessive
moisturizing.
Table 2. Optimal care products according to scalp type
Scalp
type
Cleaning
products
Moisturizing/nourishing
products
Temperature
conditions
Oily
Seboregulatory
peels with acids
(PHA, salicylic),
enzyme scrubs
once a week.
Light conditioners
without silicones, fluids
with niacinamide, masks
with clay (topically).
Warm water (up
to 38 °C); cold
air during
drying; limit the
frequency of the
hair dryer.
Dry
Enzymatic
cleansers with
papain or
bromelain; at
least once every
10 days.
Intensive moisturizing
masks with hyaluronic
acid, oils; conditioners
with lipids, overnight
masks.
Barely warm
water (up to 35
°C); minimal
heat exposure;
natural drying.
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Sensitive
Extremely
delicate peels
without acids and
coarse particles;
maximum 1 time
in 2 weeks.
Masks with bisabolol,
aloe vera, allantoin; use of
pharmacy
dermocosmetics.
Water at room
temperature;
avoid hair dryers
or cold air only.
Combined
Two-phase peels:
sebum control for
the root zone and
moisturizing for
dry areas; spot
application.
Hair masks with shea
butter, argan oil;
conditioners with
ceramides.
Moderate water
temperature (up
to 37 °C); hot air
restriction;
differentiated
drying mode.
Normal
Light enzymatic
cleansers every
10-14 days.
Moisturizing masks and
conditioners 1-2 times a
week; basic products with
panthenol.
Water no higher
than 37 °C;
infrequent use of
hot air.
Thus, a differentiated approach to the selection of scalp care products is of key importance in the
practice of a cosmetologist and trichologist. It is based on a detailed analysis of the skin condition,
taking into account the individual needs of the patient and a scientifically sound choice of product
ingredients. With the constant increase in aggressive environmental factors, a proper care strategy
is not only a cosmetic procedure, but an important part of dermatological disease prevention.
Discussion
Analysis of modern approaches to hair care: comparison of results, effectiveness, practical
significance and limitations of the study. The obtained results of the study are of great theoretical
and applied importance in the context of the development of modern dermatocosmetology and
trichology, as they allow for a comprehensive assessment of the effectiveness of various hair care
products and techniques, for correlating these findings with current scientific sources, clinical
protocols and practical guidelines.
The results of the analysis fully correlate with modern dermatological and cosmetic
recommendations that highlight scientifically based approaches to hair and scalp care. In
particular, the expediency of using salicylic acid in hyperseborrhea has been confirmed, which is
in line with the clinical guidelines of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), where
salicylic acid is listed as the product of choice for deep skin cleansing, normalizing sebum
production, and improving follicular permeability. The results also coincide with the European
Federation of Dermatologists (EADV), according to which the use of products based on zinc
pyrithione, ketoconazole and vitamin B6 demonstrates a statistically significant reduction in
seborrhea, skin irritation and hair loss. The study confirmed the effectiveness of low-concentrated
AHA acids in normalizing the condition of oily scalp, which is consistent with the results of a
meta-analysis conducted in 2021 (Li et al.), which revealed the positive effect of glycolic and
lactic acids on the skin microflora and the condition of hair follicles (Yamaguchi et al., 2024).
The analysis summarized the data on the use of peels based on AHA acids (glycolic, lactic, and
almond acids) to improve the condition of the scalp in patients with excessive oiliness and
keratinization disorders. According to the results of the literature review and personal observation,
the use of such products once a week for 4 weeks allowed to achieve a clinically significant
reduction in sebum secretion in 80% of participants, according to subjective assessments and
instrumental measurements (trichoscopy). In addition, the proposed combinations of shampoos
with mild surface-active substances (surfactants) and components with anti-inflammatory effects
(chamomile, calendula extracts, panthenol) reduced the frequency of complaints of itching,
flaking and irritation of the scalp. The combination of cleansing procedures with niacinamide and
caffeine-based serums, which stimulated microcirculation and helped strengthen the hair shaft,
proved particularly effective (Zhang & Wang, 2024).
The results can be directly used in the daily practice of a cosmetologist, hairdresser or trichologist
to optimize scalp and hair care protocols. In particular, it is recommended to include regular (but
Revista Sinapsis. ISSN 1390 9770
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not excessive) scalp cleansing with products containing active ingredients with sebum-regulating
and keratolytic effects in client instructions. It is worth emphasizing the need for an individual
selection of products, taking into account the type of scalp, hair condition and the presence of
concomitant dermatological diseases (e.g. seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis).
The use of medicinal or dermatocosmetic products without consulting a doctor is advisable only
in cases of mild disturbances, but in case of persistent or progressive symptoms, a referral to a
specialist is mandatory. Cosmetologists and hairdressers should be informed about the basics of
trichological diagnostics, in particular about the signs indicating hair growth disorders, diffuse or
focal hair loss, for timely detection and correction of pathological conditions (Krawczyk-
Wołoszyn et al., 2024).
Despite the positive results, the study has a number of limitations that should be taken into account
when interpreting the data. The analysis did not consider rare or specific scalp types, such as
atopic or very sensitive scalp, which limits the extrapolation of the results to these groups. The
composition of cosmetic products is constantly changing by manufacturers, and the presence of
variable formulations can significantly affect the performance even with the same active
ingredient. The individual effectiveness of care procedures depends on many factors, such as
genetic characteristics, general health, hormonal levels, lifestyle, etc. In addition, it should be
noted that much of the data is based on subjective assessments of participants or on secondary
analysis of the literature, which requires further validation through randomized controlled trials
(Abraham et al., 2009b).
Conclusion
The study findings deepen the understanding of the effectiveness of modern hair care products
and techniques in the context of evidence-based dermatocosmetology. They demonstrate the
relevance of an individualized approach, the need for interdisciplinary interaction, and the
importance of professional education of beauty professionals to achieve stable and safe results
with different types of hair and scalp. The analysis of modern approaches to hair care shows the
growth of scientifically based interest in this area, which integrates knowledge of dermatology,
cosmetology, trichology and psychophysiology. The comprehensive approach to hair care
involves individualizing techniques according to the type of scalp, hair structure, lifestyle and
external factors. The rational choice of shampoos, conditioners, masks, peels and styling products
is based on dermatological principles and takes into account the physiological characteristics of
the skin.
The latest technologies in cosmetic products (peptides, probiotics, enzymes, antioxidants, SPF
filters) combined with regular physiologically based procedures (massage, exfoliation, thermal
protection) significantly improve hair quality and scalp condition. In addition, the relationship
between the psycho-emotional state of a person and hair health has been confirmed, which
requires the inclusion of preventive psychohygiene in the trichological support system. Therefore,
modern hair care requires an interdisciplinary approach that combines hygienic, cosmetic, and
medical-psychological aspects, providing not only an aesthetic effect but also maintaining overall
health.
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